ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA IN 2011 - KANYAKUMARI
  

On January 6th we went from Kodaikanal to Kanyakumari which is located at the southernmost tip of India where the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean come together. First, we had Raja drive us from the mountains down to Madurai, a two-and-a-half-hour trip. Then we went by train to Nagercoil Junction, arriving around 10:00 p.m.  With no other people around, we walked in the dark to the parking lot and fortunately found a taxi.  

We then had a half-hour drive to the Sea Face hotel in Kanyakumari. The entrance didn't impress, so we went up to look at the room, our taxi driver waiting for us.  It was by far the most horrible hotel I had ever seen. The men at reception did not appear to be surprised by our reaction, and simply suggested that we go to the Sea View hotel next door. It was late at night by now, but we felt we had no option but to roll our suitcases a couple of hundred yards up a hill to the other hotel and take our chances, feeling a bit reassured that at least our driver would be there for us if we needed him.

The hotel looked great, and we couldn't believe our luck when we were given a room.  Then we asked ourselves how on earth had we managed to book such a crummy hotel when all our hotel reservations were based on online photos and reviews.  Next day, we investigated and saw to our amazement that the Internet photos used by first awful hotel were actually photos of the second beautiful hotel. We reported this at reception and were told that both hotels were owned by the same person but were under two different managers who were enemies. So go figure!

Kanyakumari is a nice town of around 35,000 people. Next morning, January 7th, the day after our arrival, we were surprised not to see the thousands of pilgrims we were told to expect. We decided to spend the day exploring the town, leaving a visit to see the island memorials for the next day.

By evening people were beginning to arrive for the weekend. These thousands were coming to see the statue of St. Thiruvalluvar and the Vivekinanda Rock Memorial which are located on two islands just offshore. Our plan for the next day was to take the ferry that shuttles people to and fro and to beat the crowds by having an early start.

 The Kanyakumari Ghats

In keeping with our plan we got up early, left the hotel at 7:30 a.m. and began to walk towards the ferry only to discover that the streets were choked with people. We were dismayed to find the queue already more than a mile long. Estimated time of arrival at the ferry was four hours. I was still getting over a cold so we decided not to go. In any case, good photos were possible from the shore.

 The statue of St. Thiruvalluvar and the Vivekinanda Rock Memorial 

The crowds we encountered here made us aware that we were having a hard time getting used to being constantly surrounded by people in the streets, on the highways, in the stations, in the shops, in the villages, virtually everywhere. At first it was intimidating, but gradually we began to feel quite safe. We did have a need occasionally to find a refuge from the noise, smells, squalor and pollution, however. We found it by relaxing over a long lunch in the restaurant of a luxury hotel. This is undoubtedly one of the best bargains India has to offer western tourists.

My most memorable experience in Kanyakumari was at the 1000-year-old Guganathaswamy temple. Paul stayed outside rather than having to take off his shoes. I went in and was motioned into the inner sanctum where the temple Brahmin handed me a brass dish holding oil burning with a large flame. I went to take it from him, but he held it back and moved his hand over the flame and then over his face. Not sure what was expected, I then did the same. 

Now, he held out some milky liquid, which I took in my hand and patted onto my face. He said, "No, drink" so I took a few drops. Finally, he put ashes and some dark orange-coloured paste on my forehead. When he passed a large plate with flowers and rupees on it, I put down some money. The other person in the inner sanctum with me, a Hindu lady, told me to take some flowers outside for the cows in the garden. It was a strange and  moving experience.

 Temple Entrance

 In the Grounds of the Temple

 Offerings in the Temple Grounds

Not feeling very energetic, we took it easy in Kanyakumari. First, we visited the Catholic church which dated from the time of St. Francis Xavier in the 17th Century.

 Our Lady of Ransom Church

  Church Interior

We also went to see the Suchindram temple located a few kilometers from the town. 

 Suchindram Temple Tank

 Close-Up View of the Tank

 Typical Rural Landscape around Kanyakumari

The town ghats were where we spent most of our time. This is an attractive area that is a major focus of activity for the town. We spent hours there watching the people.  While we were sitting on the edge of the platform that surrounded a small temple, we were approached by two beautiful young Muslim women. 

Beautiful!

Left side is the Bay of Bengal, Middle is the Indian Ocean, and Right side, the Arabian sea more

One remarkable aspect of our hotel, apart from its relative luxury, was that, in spite of being in Tamil Nadu - a dry state - it had a bar. This was located on the basement level and was very poorly lit. We had dinner there each night in order enjoy the Indian Kingfisher beer. Although dark and gloomy, it was an attractive room. Nonetheless,  barely able to see the folks at adjacent tables, we thought the atmosphere resembled a speakeasy during prohibition.

From Kanyakumari we left Tamil Nadu for Trivndrum and Varkala in the state of Kerala. Having rounded the southern tip of India, we would now be traveling in a northerly direction.

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TRAVEL THE WORLD - MAHESHWAR, INDIA

One of the very memorable moments of our trip to India in 2007 was meeting these women from Goa. They approached and surrounded us with broadly smiling faces, welcoming us to India. They said that we must go to Goa on our next visit to India, because we would have such a good time there. The only word to describe them was joyous, just because they were so delighted to see us. It is rare and delightful to encounter people who are so unabashedly happy.

TRAVEL THE WORLD - MAHESHWAR, INDIA

The population of India is more than 1.1 billion. It is understandable that when traveling there, you expect to see a lot of people. They tend to be gregarious. For instance, if you have a problem and are seen discussing it, in no time at all there will be ten people, usually men, congregating nearby to listen and offer helpful suggestions. Some of the most popular places for people to gather are the ghats beside the rivers. Maheshwar is an out-of-the-way town that is not accessible by train. At the city of Indore, we hired a driver to take us there. The Narmada river is very clean and beautiful, and the people were having an enjoyable time. Maheshwar and Mandu, located in the same district, were wonderful places to visit - all the more so in that they were quiet and far from the more popular tourist destinations.

TRAVEL THE WORLD - ORCHHA, INDIA

The Betwa at Orchha, India is a very beautiful river, clean and calm. As with many of India's rivers, ghats have been built along its banks. These are steps leading down to the water where Hindus take a purification bath. They may also perform puja, a type of ceremonial worship. For Hindus, all water, particularly river water, is sacred. Consequently, the river is of great importance in Indian communities.

TRAVEL THE WORLD - VARANASI, INDIA

THE HOLY GANGES AT VARANASI
There are more than 100 ghats along the Ganges at Varanasi, a city in the north of India. Here pilgrims come to pray and bathe. Varanasi (historic Benares) is the city of Lord Siva. Devout Hindus pray for the protection of Siva when they perform puja (i.e., pray) in the Ganges. Cremations are performed at the Manikarnika ghat, shown in the photo, where an eternal fire has been burning for 4,000 years. The belief is that the soul will then go to Nirvana and escape the cycle of birth, death and re-incarnation.

TRAVEL THE WORLD - VARANASI, INDIA

Here we are in a small boat on the river Ganges in 2007. This is the holy city of Benares, now called Varanasi. It is located in Uttar Pradesh, in the northeast part of the country. We traveled there by overnight train, a trip that took us more than 24 hours, but in spite of this was an enjoyable adventure. Indian trains are amazing: clean, safe, comfortable, reasonably on time and full of friendly, helpful people. In the photo are the ghats, or steps, leading down to the water. Here, devout Hindus bathe in the holy waters of the Ganges and say their daily prayers. The water is terribly polluted and has been tested as totally unsafe. However, those who bathe in the river apparently come through the experience unscathed.

TRAVEL THE WORLD - ORCHHA, INDIA

The Betwa, photographed in 2007 in the town of Orchha, is a very beautiful river, clean and calm. As with many of India's rivers, ghats have been built along its banks. These are steps leading down to the water where a purification bath is taken and prayers are offered to one of the Hindu deities. Because Hindus regard river water as sacred, the river is of great importance in the life of Indian communities. Orchha, a north India community in Madhya Pradesh, is known for its beautiful cenotaphs which date from the 16th and 17th Centuries.

INDIA VACATION 2007

ORCHHA CENOTAPHS and GHATS

The town of Orchha, located on the beautiful Betwa - one of India's cleanest rivers - was founded in 1531. Until 1783, when it was devastated by Shah Jehan, it served as the capital of the Orchha princely state. In the town are temples, palaces and cenotaphs of its former rulers.

We thoroughly enjoyed our three-day stay in Orchha. It is a quiet retreat away from the boisterous activity of Delhi and Varanasi.

The walk along the Betwa above ghats is especially tranquil and beautiful. As you can see in the first photo, ghats are steps constructed on the river bank which enable bathers to access the river.

The remaining photo shows the Betwa River with one of Orchha's beautiful cenotaphs in the background.