ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA 2011 - KUMARAKOM

On January 12th we took a train and taxi to Kumarakom which has a reputation as the best place to enjoy the backwaters, a major attraction of Kerala. The backwaters are an inter-connected series of fresh water lakes and canals located a short distance east of the coast of the Arabian Sea and extending for the length of Kerala.

Houseboat on the Backwaters

Shorty after arriving, Paul came down with a nasty cold. As a result, we spent the next morning in the hotel, a lovely heritage building operated by the great-grandson of the original owner. 

 Breakfast at our Hotel

Later, we made our way to the Taj Garden Retreat, a  beautiful luxury hotel, and inquired about having lunch. We were given a very warm welcome and invited to explore the extensive grounds. 

After walking for half an hour or so we reached Vembanad Lake where two of the hotel's beautiful houseboats were berthed. The armed guard posted beside them eyed me suspiciously when I began to take photos, but didn't say anything. When we approached the houseboats, one of the men on board asked if we were interested in renting it. We agreed to have a look. It was gorgeous, but we were horrified by the extravagant price and regretfully declined.

At lunch, we were greeted by a couple who had been sitting at an adjacent table.  The husband asked us if we were from Canada. I wondered how he had guessed.  As it turned out, they were Indians who lived in Woodbridge, part of the municipality that had been Paul's employer. The husband had seen Paul in the city hall and recognized him. What a small world! 

After lunch, one of the hotel staff offered to take us on a tour of the hotel and its grounds. He told us that in the late 19th Century, the natural beauty of the area had inspired Henry Baker, an English missionary, to build a bungalow which subsequently was purchased by Taj Hotels. Under Taj ownership, the bungalow was renovated, new cottages and luxury villas were built, and the grounds were beautifully landscaped. Sometimes called the little jewel of Kumarakom, the hotel has retained the beauty of its surroundings on Vembanad lake. 

On January 15th when it was time to leave Kumarakom, we decided to forgo the very popular but expensive houseboat idea and take a less expensive option, a three-hour ferry from Kottayam to Alleppey. This had a total price tag of less than $1.00 for the two of us. The added attraction was that we would share the experience with locals rather than tourists.

The ferry soon became very crowded with standing room only. It seemed to be the only means of transport for the agricultural villages we passed which appeared not to have road access. The ferry was was old, dilapidated, and in need of a good paint job. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the trip very much and felt that, not only did we get a bargain, but in many ways to experience the backwaters as the locals do was to be preferred to riding in a houseboat. It must be said, however, that a one- or two-day trip on a houseboat has been described as among the one hundred most important things to experience before one dies. The furnishings are beautiful and you are waited upon and fed in the most luxurious fashion.

 Waiting for the ferry

 At the Ferry Dock

 House on the Ferry Route

 Construction Project Seen along the Way 

 The Backwaters

Arriving in Alleppey

At Alleppey we went to the station and waited for the train to Ernakulam, our next destination.

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 ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA - TRIVANDRUM AND VARKALA

On January 9th, we left Kanyakumari on the train for Trivandrum, the capital city of the state of Kerala.  We had about eight hours in the city.  It isn't very large so we were able to see most of the centre from an auto-rickshaw.  These vehicles go everywhere in India. They are small, can turn on a dime, and are cheap and reasonably comfortable. They make traveling in India a pleasure. The locals call them autos or tuk-tuks.

We liked Trivandrum. It is clean, has lots of trees, and can be proud of its many beautiful new and traditional buildings. We spent much of our time at the Trivandrum zoological garden, perhaps the best in India. This zoo is beautifully landscaped with many unfamiliar trees and other vegetation. The animals we liked best were the lion, tiger, hippos, rhino, elephant, and jaguar. We felt very sorry for the lion.  He looked old and unhappy all by himself in his cage. Except for the lion and the big cats, animals are housed in large enclosures which, wherever possible, have been designed to resemble their natural habitat.

Trivandrum Zoo Entrance

 Trivandrum Zoo

Paul at the Zoo with the Family that Asked to Be Photographed with Him

 Hippos, Trivandrum Zoo

We boarded our train for Varkala around 9 p.m. expecting a four-hour train ride. Because we were tired, we decided to lie down for a nap in our compartment. Very soon after falling asleep we were awakened by two railway officials who said  we had missed our stop and urged us to disembark immediately if we were not to miss another. This was not good news especially at this hour of the evening. We were feeling quite foolish for not being sufficiently familiar with the map to have recognized an error in our itinerary. The railway official, while literally pushing us toward the exit, tried to be helpful, assuring us that we merely had to get a taxi back to Varkala. We felt very grateful - railway personnel don't normally keep watch over tourists and never announce the upcoming station - and thanked him as heartily as we could in our disoriented half-asleep state.

 Porters Carrying our Luggage

 In the Station

We were fortunate that the only inconvenience turned out to be a two-hour taxi trip. It did have its nerve-wracking moments, though.  As we approached Varkala, it became obvious that the taxi driver was not familiar with our hotel.  It didn't help that he had very little English. For perhaps twenty minutes after arriving in Varkala, we drove at what seemed a reckless speed through narrow, very rough, dirt roads. It was dark with only an occasional street light. Once in a while, we could see a house or hotel lit up behind a high fence. Later, we discovered we were both having the same thoughts, wondering if the driver would stop and motion to us to get out and find our own way, or if his old Ambassador taxi would break down from the rough treatment he was giving it. Eventually, he sought directions, and so well after midnight we arrived at our hotel, safe but exhausted.

Next day, we strolled along the cliff-top walk, looking down at the amazing views of the beach and the Arabian Sea 200 feet below. The beach, more than two miles long, is one of the best in India. 

Looking Down on the Beach at Varkala

 

 Steps down to Papasnanam Beach, Varkala.

Shops along Cliff-top Walkway, Varkala

Being tired after our stressful time the previous evening, we enjoyed an extended lunch at one of the restaurants on the cliff-top, admiring the view and watching the dolphins jumping up in the sea. Varkala, once a hippy hang-out, has recently become very popular with tourists wishing to avoid the crowds of Alleppey. In spite of its new found popularity, it has managed to retain a very relaxed, casual atmosphere.

That evening we had dinner with a couple from Calgary who we met at our hotel. We decided on the Cafe Italiano, thinking that it would be a welcome change from vegetable curry. This turned out to be a mistake. Pizza and pasta just don't go with Indian spices. I was excited to see wine on the menu after our time in Tamil Nadu, and chose a local variety, trying to avoid the outrageous price of imported vintages. One sip was all I could stand, though.  How I wished I had been wise like my companions and ordered the excellent Indian beer!

We spent January 11th on the beach. Most of India's coast is unsafe for swimming.  Here was one of the few safe beaches, complete with lifeguards. It was beautiful and clean with fine sand and lovely warm water. Best of all, it had  the big waves that I love.  It was a beautiful swim, though we were both tossed by the waves, losing control and landing with a thump, but fortunately not injured.  There was also a strong lateral current that it was necessary to fight in order to avoid being swept down the beach far from our umbrella. 

After a thoroughly enjoyable four hours or so, we had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the beach, and watched the sun set over the Arabian Sea.

 View of the Beach from Our Restaurant, Varkala

On January 12th we took a train and taxi to Kumarakom where we were looking forward to having an excursion in the backwaters.

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