ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA 2011 - KUMARAKOM

On January 12th we took a train and taxi to Kumarakom which has a reputation as the best place to enjoy the backwaters, a major attraction of Kerala. The backwaters are an inter-connected series of fresh water lakes and canals located a short distance east of the coast of the Arabian Sea and extending for the length of Kerala.

Houseboat on the Backwaters

Shorty after arriving, Paul came down with a nasty cold. As a result, we spent the next morning in the hotel, a lovely heritage building operated by the great-grandson of the original owner. 

 Breakfast at our Hotel

Later, we made our way to the Taj Garden Retreat, a  beautiful luxury hotel, and inquired about having lunch. We were given a very warm welcome and invited to explore the extensive grounds. 

After walking for half an hour or so we reached Vembanad Lake where two of the hotel's beautiful houseboats were berthed. The armed guard posted beside them eyed me suspiciously when I began to take photos, but didn't say anything. When we approached the houseboats, one of the men on board asked if we were interested in renting it. We agreed to have a look. It was gorgeous, but we were horrified by the extravagant price and regretfully declined.

At lunch, we were greeted by a couple who had been sitting at an adjacent table.  The husband asked us if we were from Canada. I wondered how he had guessed.  As it turned out, they were Indians who lived in Woodbridge, part of the municipality that had been Paul's employer. The husband had seen Paul in the city hall and recognized him. What a small world! 

After lunch, one of the hotel staff offered to take us on a tour of the hotel and its grounds. He told us that in the late 19th Century, the natural beauty of the area had inspired Henry Baker, an English missionary, to build a bungalow which subsequently was purchased by Taj Hotels. Under Taj ownership, the bungalow was renovated, new cottages and luxury villas were built, and the grounds were beautifully landscaped. Sometimes called the little jewel of Kumarakom, the hotel has retained the beauty of its surroundings on Vembanad lake. 

On January 15th when it was time to leave Kumarakom, we decided to forgo the very popular but expensive houseboat idea and take a less expensive option, a three-hour ferry from Kottayam to Alleppey. This had a total price tag of less than $1.00 for the two of us. The added attraction was that we would share the experience with locals rather than tourists.

The ferry soon became very crowded with standing room only. It seemed to be the only means of transport for the agricultural villages we passed which appeared not to have road access. The ferry was was old, dilapidated, and in need of a good paint job. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the trip very much and felt that, not only did we get a bargain, but in many ways to experience the backwaters as the locals do was to be preferred to riding in a houseboat. It must be said, however, that a one- or two-day trip on a houseboat has been described as among the one hundred most important things to experience before one dies. The furnishings are beautiful and you are waited upon and fed in the most luxurious fashion.

 Waiting for the ferry

 At the Ferry Dock

 House on the Ferry Route

 Construction Project Seen along the Way 

 The Backwaters

Arriving in Alleppey

At Alleppey we went to the station and waited for the train to Ernakulam, our next destination.

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 ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA - TRIVANDRUM AND VARKALA

On January 9th, we left Kanyakumari on the train for Trivandrum, the capital city of the state of Kerala.  We had about eight hours in the city.  It isn't very large so we were able to see most of the centre from an auto-rickshaw.  These vehicles go everywhere in India. They are small, can turn on a dime, and are cheap and reasonably comfortable. They make traveling in India a pleasure. The locals call them autos or tuk-tuks.

We liked Trivandrum. It is clean, has lots of trees, and can be proud of its many beautiful new and traditional buildings. We spent much of our time at the Trivandrum zoological garden, perhaps the best in India. This zoo is beautifully landscaped with many unfamiliar trees and other vegetation. The animals we liked best were the lion, tiger, hippos, rhino, elephant, and jaguar. We felt very sorry for the lion.  He looked old and unhappy all by himself in his cage. Except for the lion and the big cats, animals are housed in large enclosures which, wherever possible, have been designed to resemble their natural habitat.

Trivandrum Zoo Entrance

 Trivandrum Zoo

Paul at the Zoo with the Family that Asked to Be Photographed with Him

 Hippos, Trivandrum Zoo

We boarded our train for Varkala around 9 p.m. expecting a four-hour train ride. Because we were tired, we decided to lie down for a nap in our compartment. Very soon after falling asleep we were awakened by two railway officials who said  we had missed our stop and urged us to disembark immediately if we were not to miss another. This was not good news especially at this hour of the evening. We were feeling quite foolish for not being sufficiently familiar with the map to have recognized an error in our itinerary. The railway official, while literally pushing us toward the exit, tried to be helpful, assuring us that we merely had to get a taxi back to Varkala. We felt very grateful - railway personnel don't normally keep watch over tourists and never announce the upcoming station - and thanked him as heartily as we could in our disoriented half-asleep state.

 Porters Carrying our Luggage

 In the Station

We were fortunate that the only inconvenience turned out to be a two-hour taxi trip. It did have its nerve-wracking moments, though.  As we approached Varkala, it became obvious that the taxi driver was not familiar with our hotel.  It didn't help that he had very little English. For perhaps twenty minutes after arriving in Varkala, we drove at what seemed a reckless speed through narrow, very rough, dirt roads. It was dark with only an occasional street light. Once in a while, we could see a house or hotel lit up behind a high fence. Later, we discovered we were both having the same thoughts, wondering if the driver would stop and motion to us to get out and find our own way, or if his old Ambassador taxi would break down from the rough treatment he was giving it. Eventually, he sought directions, and so well after midnight we arrived at our hotel, safe but exhausted.

Next day, we strolled along the cliff-top walk, looking down at the amazing views of the beach and the Arabian Sea 200 feet below. The beach, more than two miles long, is one of the best in India. 

Looking Down on the Beach at Varkala

 

 Steps down to Papasnanam Beach, Varkala.

Shops along Cliff-top Walkway, Varkala

Being tired after our stressful time the previous evening, we enjoyed an extended lunch at one of the restaurants on the cliff-top, admiring the view and watching the dolphins jumping up in the sea. Varkala, once a hippy hang-out, has recently become very popular with tourists wishing to avoid the crowds of Alleppey. In spite of its new found popularity, it has managed to retain a very relaxed, casual atmosphere.

That evening we had dinner with a couple from Calgary who we met at our hotel. We decided on the Cafe Italiano, thinking that it would be a welcome change from vegetable curry. This turned out to be a mistake. Pizza and pasta just don't go with Indian spices. I was excited to see wine on the menu after our time in Tamil Nadu, and chose a local variety, trying to avoid the outrageous price of imported vintages. One sip was all I could stand, though.  How I wished I had been wise like my companions and ordered the excellent Indian beer!

We spent January 11th on the beach. Most of India's coast is unsafe for swimming.  Here was one of the few safe beaches, complete with lifeguards. It was beautiful and clean with fine sand and lovely warm water. Best of all, it had  the big waves that I love.  It was a beautiful swim, though we were both tossed by the waves, losing control and landing with a thump, but fortunately not injured.  There was also a strong lateral current that it was necessary to fight in order to avoid being swept down the beach far from our umbrella. 

After a thoroughly enjoyable four hours or so, we had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the beach, and watched the sun set over the Arabian Sea.

 View of the Beach from Our Restaurant, Varkala

On January 12th we took a train and taxi to Kumarakom where we were looking forward to having an excursion in the backwaters.

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ANNETTE'S TRAVELS: SOUTH INDIA IN 2011 - KANYAKUMARI
  

On January 6th we went from Kodaikanal to Kanyakumari which is located at the southernmost tip of India where the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean come together. First, we had Raja drive us from the mountains down to Madurai, a two-and-a-half-hour trip. Then we went by train to Nagercoil Junction, arriving around 10:00 p.m.  With no other people around, we walked in the dark to the parking lot and fortunately found a taxi.  

We then had a half-hour drive to the Sea Face hotel in Kanyakumari. The entrance didn't impress, so we went up to look at the room, our taxi driver waiting for us.  It was by far the most horrible hotel I had ever seen. The men at reception did not appear to be surprised by our reaction, and simply suggested that we go to the Sea View hotel next door. It was late at night by now, but we felt we had no option but to roll our suitcases a couple of hundred yards up a hill to the other hotel and take our chances, feeling a bit reassured that at least our driver would be there for us if we needed him.

The hotel looked great, and we couldn't believe our luck when we were given a room.  Then we asked ourselves how on earth had we managed to book such a crummy hotel when all our hotel reservations were based on online photos and reviews.  Next day, we investigated and saw to our amazement that the Internet photos used by first awful hotel were actually photos of the second beautiful hotel. We reported this at reception and were told that both hotels were owned by the same person but were under two different managers who were enemies. So go figure!

Kanyakumari is a nice town of around 35,000 people. Next morning, January 7th, the day after our arrival, we were surprised not to see the thousands of pilgrims we were told to expect. We decided to spend the day exploring the town, leaving a visit to see the island memorials for the next day.

By evening people were beginning to arrive for the weekend. These thousands were coming to see the statue of St. Thiruvalluvar and the Vivekinanda Rock Memorial which are located on two islands just offshore. Our plan for the next day was to take the ferry that shuttles people to and fro and to beat the crowds by having an early start.

 The Kanyakumari Ghats

In keeping with our plan we got up early, left the hotel at 7:30 a.m. and began to walk towards the ferry only to discover that the streets were choked with people. We were dismayed to find the queue already more than a mile long. Estimated time of arrival at the ferry was four hours. I was still getting over a cold so we decided not to go. In any case, good photos were possible from the shore.

 The statue of St. Thiruvalluvar and the Vivekinanda Rock Memorial 

The crowds we encountered here made us aware that we were having a hard time getting used to being constantly surrounded by people in the streets, on the highways, in the stations, in the shops, in the villages, virtually everywhere. At first it was intimidating, but gradually we began to feel quite safe. We did have a need occasionally to find a refuge from the noise, smells, squalor and pollution, however. We found it by relaxing over a long lunch in the restaurant of a luxury hotel. This is undoubtedly one of the best bargains India has to offer western tourists.

My most memorable experience in Kanyakumari was at the 1000-year-old Guganathaswamy temple. Paul stayed outside rather than having to take off his shoes. I went in and was motioned into the inner sanctum where the temple Brahmin handed me a brass dish holding oil burning with a large flame. I went to take it from him, but he held it back and moved his hand over the flame and then over his face. Not sure what was expected, I then did the same. 

Now, he held out some milky liquid, which I took in my hand and patted onto my face. He said, "No, drink" so I took a few drops. Finally, he put ashes and some dark orange-coloured paste on my forehead. When he passed a large plate with flowers and rupees on it, I put down some money. The other person in the inner sanctum with me, a Hindu lady, told me to take some flowers outside for the cows in the garden. It was a strange and  moving experience.

 Temple Entrance

 In the Grounds of the Temple

 Offerings in the Temple Grounds

Not feeling very energetic, we took it easy in Kanyakumari. First, we visited the Catholic church which dated from the time of St. Francis Xavier in the 17th Century.

 Our Lady of Ransom Church

  Church Interior

We also went to see the Suchindram temple located a few kilometers from the town. 

 Suchindram Temple Tank

 Close-Up View of the Tank

 Typical Rural Landscape around Kanyakumari

The town ghats were where we spent most of our time. This is an attractive area that is a major focus of activity for the town. We spent hours there watching the people.  While we were sitting on the edge of the platform that surrounded a small temple, we were approached by two beautiful young Muslim women. 

Beautiful!

Left side is the Bay of Bengal, Middle is the Indian Ocean, and Right side, the Arabian sea more

One remarkable aspect of our hotel, apart from its relative luxury, was that, in spite of being in Tamil Nadu - a dry state - it had a bar. This was located on the basement level and was very poorly lit. We had dinner there each night in order enjoy the Indian Kingfisher beer. Although dark and gloomy, it was an attractive room. Nonetheless,  barely able to see the folks at adjacent tables, we thought the atmosphere resembled a speakeasy during prohibition.

From Kanyakumari we left Tamil Nadu for Trivndrum and Varkala in the state of Kerala. Having rounded the southern tip of India, we would now be traveling in a northerly direction.

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